Meeting the Water Dragon
If you have ever seen a long, silver flash at the top of a massive aquarium, you have likely met a Silver Arowana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum). In many cultures, these fish are seen as symbols of luck, wealth, and strength. They don’t swim like other fish; they glide through the water with a grace that is almost hypnotic.
But behind the beauty and the myths, there is a biological reality. The Arowana is an ancient predator. They have been on this planet since the time of the dinosaurs, and they haven’t changed much. They are “surface hunters” from the Amazon River, capable of leaping out of the water to catch birds and insects from low-hanging branches.
In this guide, I am going to pull back the curtain on what it is really like to live with a “Dragon.” We will explore why they need such massive tanks, the danger of “Drop Eye,” and the resources you need to keep this giant healthy for 20 years.
The Size Shock (Reality Check)
When you see a baby Silver Arowana at a pet store, it is usually 4 to 6 inches long. It looks like a thin, silver ribbon. At this size, it looks perfect for a 40-gallon tank.
How Big Do They Get? I want to be very honest with you: The Silver Arowana is a true monster fish. In a home aquarium, they can easily reach 3 feet (36 inches) in length. In the wild, they can grow even larger.
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The Growth Rate: Arowanas grow incredibly fast. A baby can grow 2 inches every month if it is fed well and kept in clean water.
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The Rule: You are not just buying a fish; you are buying a living “log.” You must be prepared for the space they require, or you are setting the fish up for a life of deformity and pain.
The “Dragon’s Palace” (Tank Requirements)
Because Arowanas are long and cannot “bend” their bodies easily, the shape of the tank is more important than the volume of water.
1. The “Turning Room” Rule
Most standard fish tanks are narrow. A 55-gallon tank is only 12 inches wide. If your fish is 24 inches long, it cannot even turn around!
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Recommendation: For a full-grown Silver Arowana, you need a tank that is at least 30 inches wide. Usually, this means a custom tank or a massive 250-gallon setup.
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The Solution: If you cannot afford a 250-gallon glass tank, many “Monster Fish” keepers use large Indoor Ponds or “Stock Tanks” to give their Arowanas the room they need to glide.
2. The “Lid of Steel”
This is the most important piece of technical guidance I can give you. Arowanas are world-class jumpers. They are “Surface-to-Air” missiles. If there is a tiny gap in your lid, or if the lid is lightweight, the Arowana will jump out.

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Mentor Tip: Seen that Arowanas knock heavy glass lids off tanks and end up on the floor. You must use Lid Clips or heavy weights (like stones) to keep the top secure.
The Mystery of “Drop Eye”
If you look at photos of older Arowanas, you might notice that one or both of their eyes point downward instead of looking straight. This is called “Drop Eye.”
What causes it? In the wild, Arowanas are always looking up at the trees for food. In a glass tank, they often look down at the floor or at other fish. Some experts believe that constant looking down causes the eye to stay that way.
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How to Prevent It: Some hobbyists use “Floating Toys” (like ping-pong balls) to keep the fish looking up. Others use “Bare Bottom” tanks so there is nothing interesting for the fish to look at on the floor. While it doesn’t hurt the fish, it is something every “Dragon” owner should know about.
Feeding a Predator
Feeding an Arowana is one of the most exciting parts of owning one, but you have to be careful not to turn them into “picky eaters.”

The Professional Menu:
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Carnivore Pellets: High-quality floating pellets should be the base of their diet.
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Insects: They love crickets, mealworms, and grasshoppers. (Make sure they are “pet-safe” and not from your garden where there might be pesticides).
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Frozen Seafood: Pieces of raw shrimp or fish fillet are excellent for building muscle and shimmer.
The “Surface Feeding” Habit: Always feed your Arowana food that floats. Since their mouths are shaped like a “trap door” that opens upward, it is difficult for them to eat food that sinks to the bottom.
Water Quality (Keeping the Shimmer)
To keep those scales looking like polished silver, you need to manage the “invisible” water chemistry.
Filtration Needs: A 3-foot fish that eats protein-rich food produces a massive amount of waste. You need the most powerful filtration possible.
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The System: I recommend a Sump Filter. A sump is like a second, smaller tank underneath your main tank that holds a huge amount of “Good Germs” and extra water. It is the gold standard for big fish.
The Weekly Change: Even with a huge filter, you must do a 25% to 50% water change every week. High “Nitrates” can cause an Arowana’s gills to curl, which is a permanent and painful deformity.
Tank Mates for a Legend
An Arowana is a predator, but it is generally peaceful toward fish that it cannot eat.
Safe Neighbors:
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Oscars: They are big enough to hold their own.
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Large Freshwater Rays: Since Rays stay on the floor and Arowanas stay at the top, they are the “Perfect Pair” for big tanks.
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Large Datnoids: Often called “Tiger Fish,” they add a beautiful pattern to the tank.
The “Mouth Rule”: If a fish can fit in the Arowana’s mouth, it is a snack. I have seen people lose 6-inch fish to a 15-inch Arowana. Always choose roommates that are at least half the size of the Arowana.
Technical Guidance: The Arowana Routine
If you decide to take on the challenge of a Dragon, your life will change. You become a “Guardian of the Ecosystem.”
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Daily Check: Check the lid every morning. Arowanas can be “spooked” by shadows or lights turning on, causing them to bolt and hit the lid.
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Feeding Time: Watch them eat. If an Arowana stops eating, it is usually a sign that the water temperature has dropped or the Ammonia is too high.
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The “Slow Move”: Never put your hands in the tank suddenly. Arowanas are nervous fish. A sudden splash can make them jump, potentially injuring their snouts or losing scales.
The “Space” Ethics
Many people are eager to discover the Arowana because it represents “power.” But there is no power in keeping a beautiful fish in a tank where it cannot turn around.
I want to encourage you to be a “Legacy Keeper.” An Arowana can live for 20 years. That means if you buy one when you are a student, it could still be with you when you have your own family. If you don’t have the space for a 250-gallon tank right now, I suggest starting with a “Bala Shark” (which looks similar but is smaller) and saving the “Dragon” for when you have your dream home.
3 “Unknown” Facts About Silver Arowanas
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They are Mouthbrooders: The father Arowana carries the eggs and the babies in his mouth for weeks to protect them. He doesn’t eat the whole time!
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They See Colors: Arowanas have excellent eyesight. They can see colors above the water, which is how they spot bright-colored insects in the trees.
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The “Scent” Hunters: While they use their eyes to hunt, they also have tiny “barbels” (whiskers) on their chin that help them feel vibrations and find food in murky water.
Conclusion: Respecting the Ancient One
The Silver Arowana is more than just a fish; it is a living piece of natural history. Owning one is like having a dinosaur in your living room. It requires a lot of space, a lot of food, and a commitment to keeping the water perfect.
If you are one of the people eager to discover this fish, I hope this guide has shown you both the beauty and the responsibility. If you have the space and the heart for a Dragon, it will be the most impressive pet you ever own.
Do you have a large tank and you are wondering if an Arowana will fit? Or are you worried about a “Drop Eye” problem? Leave a comment below! I am here to provide the resources and guidance you need to succeed with these legendary giants.
